July 2020
After the COVID-19 restrictions eased somewhat, we had pondered long and hard over which restaurant to head to for our first venture out in quite some time. We decided to return to William Drabble at Seven Park Place (stjameshotelandclub.com/en/restaurant-seven-park-place/william-drabble). This was going to be our third visit, with the previous two visits coming in the two preceding years. Both our previous outings had been fantastic, fine French fare and we also have some vouchers which came in handy.
We booked for early Saturday evening, as we didn’t want to get a late train home. It was our first venture into London, and it was eerily quiet; from the train through to the city itself. We donned our masks, just as we had on the train, and ordered a cab direct to the restaurant. The restaurant is within the St James’ hotel, not too far from Jermyn Street- for those who like their business shirts. The restaurant itself has recently been renovated, when we heard this news we were concerned as one of the main draws is the small intimate restaurant. Fortunately, the update has managed to retain this, even though the dining room has been extended.
Prior to our meal, we sat in the bar for a quick aperitive. We were taken to our table, which has been appropriately spaced given the social distancing requirements. The staff were all wearing masks and we both felt very comfortable in the restaurant. We perused the menu and decided we would plump for the tasting menu. Ian spent time on the wine list but was assisted by the sommelier- recommending a Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa (Cederberg, 2006) priced at £90.
Seven Park Place follows the old tradition of lots of little tasting plates (separate to the tasting menu)- so after we ordered we received some Hors d'oeuvres which included tempura prawn and miniature bruschetta. Following this we received a tomato gazpacho which, considering we are both not fans of cold soup- was very enjoyable. The first course was the scallops in a spiced pea puree- which was fantastic; the spice within the puree enhanced the dish considerably and was the perfect start to the meal.
The next course was lobster with Cornish potatoes & artichoke which was divine and beautifully cooked. Lobster is one of life’s pleasures and when it is served this well, although you are picking up the bill, still makes you feel extremely fortunate. We were in no doubt we had made the right choice in going with the tasting menu, after only two courses.
The next course was foie gras, Ian’s favourite, it isn’t to Natalie’s taste and when we placed the order, they were happy to switch this for a red mullet dish. Both dishes were brilliant, the foie gras had the perfect texture with the gingerbread and roasted peach giving the dish both the sweetness and crunch that makes this so memorable. The red mullet was accompanied with roasted peppers and onions and was very tasty, brilliant considering this was not part of the standard tasting menu.
The main was lamb, which went perfectly with Ian’s Cabernet Sauvignon and was another standout dish, the sauce was beautifully rich and the mash potato which was with it was a taste sensation. The leg meat, which was compressed, added another dimension to the course giving depth.
Following this, a palette cleanser arrived- quite a sharp lemon dish but perfect to cut through the rich sauce and the red wine. The first dessert arrived; strawberries and on first inspection looked extremely simple but was delightful with mint and vanilla running through the dish.
The final course was a baked apricot stuffed with pistachio frangipane and pistachio ice cream. It has the predominant flavour of almond, as you would imagine- probably not as sweet as either of us like, to be honest, but the technique and craft were there to be admired.
We thoroughly enjoyed the dinner, we asked for the bill and this was accompanied by some petit fours. Despite the covid restrictions, the experience was still excellent with the food, service and drinks equally on par. We continue to be amazed by this restaurant and we are already looking forward to returning again soon.
Food 4.5/5
Drink 4/5
Service 4.5/5
Value for Money 4.5/5
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